Chinese opera predates the first Western opera by about 600 years, although it wasn't until the 13th and 14th centuries that performances began to develop a structured operatic form, with rules of composition and fixed role characterization. Distinct regional styles also developed, and even today there are marked differences among the operas performed in, say, Peking, Canton, Shanghai, Fukien, Chiu Chow, and Sichuan.
Most popular in Hong Kong, however, is Peking-style opera, with its spectacular costumes, elaborate makeup, and feats of acrobatics and swordsmanship, and the less flamboyant but more readily understood Cantonese-style opera. Plots usually dramatize legends and historical events, and extol such virtues as loyalty, filial piety, and righteousness. Accompanied by seven or eight musicians, the performers sing in shrill, high-pitched falsetto, a sound Westerners sometimes do not initially appreciate. Although lyrics are in Chinese, body language helps translate the stories.
Another aspect of Chinese opera that surprises Westerners is its informality. No one minds if spectators arrive late or leave early; in fact, no one even minds if a spectator, upon spotting friends or relatives, makes his or her way through the auditorium for a chat.
For visitors, the easiest way to see a Chinese opera is during the Hong Kong Arts Festival, held from about mid-February to early March each year. Alternatively, Cantonese opera is a common feature of important Chinese festivals, such as the birthday of Tin Hau or the annual Bun Festival on Cheung Chau island, when temporary bamboo theaters are erected.
Otherwise, Cantonese opera is performed fairly regularly at Town Halls in the New Territories, as well as in City Hall in Central and the Hong Kong Cultural Centre in Tsim Sha Tsui. However, Chinese opera is immensely popular in Hong Kong, so much so that tickets for these shows sell out well in advance, making it almost impossible for tourists to attend performances. If you're still determined to try, call the URBTIX overseas hot line well in advance of your arrival in Hong Kong, or, once in the SAR, contact the HKTB or check with one of the tourist publications for information on what's playing and then call or drop by URBTIX. Alternatively, the concierge of your hotel may be able to secure seats. Prices generally range from about HK$100 to HK$300 (US$13-US$39).